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Chris DeBarr now runs the kitchen at Revel, the Carrollton Avenue restaurant and bar owned by master mixologist Chris McMillian. The current menu, written in a small font, fills up several pages. Plus, on a recent night, there were two pages of printed specials. That won’t surprise followers of DeBarr, who first got notice as the chef at The Delachaise in the months after Hurricane Katrina. He later opened Green Goddess in the French Quarter.

DeBarr’s hyperactive culinary creativity can’t be constrained by geographic boundaries. My meal included the muhammara, a Syrian dip of peppers and walnuts, a tribute to Spain with cheese, olives and a membrillo sauce, and a summer salad of crabmeat piled between slabs of watermelon. DeBarr will likely stop by your table. He’ll have a lot to say about food. You’ll want to listen. — Todd

133 N. Carrollton Ave., New Orleans, 504.309.6122

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